There are definitely 2 types of hostals for pilgrims - the parish run ones who are staffed by volunteers from all over Europe - the volunteers are designated to a particular hostal which can be anywhere on one of the many camino routes - and the municipal or privately run albergues.
The parish hostals provide a shared meal for dinner and a shared breakfast and an opportunity for prayer - much more akin to the true pilgrim philosophy, the municipal hostals are more like backpackers where pilgrims can have a cheap stay in shared dorms etc. The municipal hostals have better facilities as they are better funded whereas the parish ones rely on donations from the pilgrims. Both have their advantages ! We stayed in another parish hostal at Tosontas and really enjoyed it - although 2 nites in a row on vinyl covered squabs was a bit tough ! The evening meal was a hearty lentil, potato and choritzo stew. Next day we had breakfast and embarked on a bleak 18km trek with no food- all shops were shut on passing, through a forest track to St Juan de Ortega. On arrival we were famished and even ordered a couple of red wines to warm us up - however they arrived chilled ! After refuelling we powered off to Atapuerta where we stayed in a brand new hostal - luxury ! An Italian couple - Gino & Petra invited us to tea with a few other pilgrims - Gina cooked Spaghetti carbonara - it and the evening was a great success. Neither of them know a word of English but we converse via other pilgrim translators and sign language ! Today we have made it to Burgos where we are staying in a pension for 2 nights = sleep in tomorrow and a leisurely day around town. Kathleen is in good health and my blisters have healed but Mads has been troubled by a couple of blisters and just yesterday Gab was complaining of a sore knee - after he had been trouble free until then ! We have met some pilgrims who have walked huge distances - one started in Amsterdam 2 months ago and several celebtrated their 1000km achievements yesterday. Here´s hoping a day off tomorrow will revitalise the body so we can make 750kms !
Burgos...well done! You are now old hands ready to start the Meseta! Hope it isn't too muddy. Saw your niece briefly at RSS yesterday and she asked when you were coming home. Had to tell her you had a bit of walking to do yet.
ReplyDeleteActually I just realised I must have been a 1000k'er about then as well: maybe those people walked from Le Puy! I had the credential from SJPP and it 'counted down' the kms to Santiago, so I was watching the total 'disappear' rather than 'add up'. I think I may well have been confused about how far I had walked.
ReplyDeleteAnyhow, you guys are 'old hands' now, and I hope the Meseta surprises you with some green-ness, and isn't too muddy!
we stayed in the same place in Tosantos, had a very funny night.Hope you are enjoying your few days in Burgos :)
ReplyDeleteI love this photo- the happiness of long distance walkers once the first ten days are behind them....you all look relaxed and happy and 'in the rhythm'.
ReplyDeleteMargaret