Just when you are feeling great and invincible the camino offers you a lesson in humility ! it sends a slight muscle strain or some tendonitis just to remind you of the frailty of the human body ! With this in the forefront of my consciousness we left Rabanal - we were unable to stay at the CSJ hostal as it was having a spring clean, and set off for the Cruz Ferro. Having deposited our stones on the huge pile we started our descent towards Manjarin. I read from our guidebook that there was a modern day Knights Templar called Tomas stationed here. As we entered the village the teenagers saw an aged hippie in a combie van and gave him an enthusiastic wave but it was a case of mistaken identity - not Tomas ! Around the next bend there was the Templar stronghold ! Tomas rings a bell - by hand when pilgrims approach - so we popped in for a visit. I was not intending to enter his shrine but felt drawn in by the irrisistable Templar pull ! Although I had foresworn not to buy any souvenirs until Santiago I could not resist buying a templar bandana which initiates me into the brotherhood until I complete my pilgrimage. With humility as my breastplate, my walking sticks as my sword and my bandana as my badge of honour I can now march on to Santiago fully prepared for whatever the road send my way !
That night we stayed at Moliniseca - a pretty little village with some grand houses. We encountered the communal swimming pool which was the river - half dammed - in the middle of town ! It was a picturesque spot, well patronised by the locals and a few pilgrims. Whilst waiting for our meal we also watched an impromptu game of soccer amongst the local lads - nice first touches and tricky footwork.
The next day we headed towards Ponferrada and the Knights Templar castle ! I was full of expectation that my newly acquired membership of the Order would somehow lead me towards the legendary Templar treasure which is reputed to have been hidden in the castle. But alas the castle was closed and not due to open for 2 hours ! The souvenir shop over the road which contained some fine examples of Templar souvenirs was also closed - so we came away empty handed and trudged off towards Cacabelos for the night. Our refugio here was set into the walls surrounding the church - like stables with 2 beds in each stall - an ingenious design.
Then today we left Cacabelos and headed towards Vega de Valcarnces. However after arriving there we decided to push on towards the next town and have decided to stay at Ruitelan under the hospitality of Carlos. All appears to be well with injuries not impeding our progress. However we did experience some light rain today which saw us donning our colourful ponchos.
That night we stayed at Moliniseca - a pretty little village with some grand houses. We encountered the communal swimming pool which was the river - half dammed - in the middle of town ! It was a picturesque spot, well patronised by the locals and a few pilgrims. Whilst waiting for our meal we also watched an impromptu game of soccer amongst the local lads - nice first touches and tricky footwork.
The next day we headed towards Ponferrada and the Knights Templar castle ! I was full of expectation that my newly acquired membership of the Order would somehow lead me towards the legendary Templar treasure which is reputed to have been hidden in the castle. But alas the castle was closed and not due to open for 2 hours ! The souvenir shop over the road which contained some fine examples of Templar souvenirs was also closed - so we came away empty handed and trudged off towards Cacabelos for the night. Our refugio here was set into the walls surrounding the church - like stables with 2 beds in each stall - an ingenious design.
Then today we left Cacabelos and headed towards Vega de Valcarnces. However after arriving there we decided to push on towards the next town and have decided to stay at Ruitelan under the hospitality of Carlos. All appears to be well with injuries not impeding our progress. However we did experience some light rain today which saw us donning our colourful ponchos.
Sounds like you actually could "see" the Cruz de Ferro and Tomas' Castle...... two things that dimly loomed out of the mist for me. But I had gorgeous views on O'Cebreiro, so I hope that light rain you had today doesn't mean you don't see the views tomorrow!!!
ReplyDeleteI am enjoying reading of your experience. My camino starts in September, can't wait. I am learning more each day by reading the camino forums and blogs.Thanks for sharing. Rita
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