Monday, June 15, 2009

Two long hot days


Our rest day in Burgos was notable for the number of times we got ripped ! First coffees at breakfast were advertised at 90c but cost double - we think that the cheap price was for thimble sized cups ! Then buying our lunch from a dairy we were short changed ! Then we decided to have a pre-dinner drink at a cafe and were charged 12E for a round ! At dinner we decided to try sangria at 14E jug - and only got 4 glasses out of it - it was 50% ice ! One of those days !

The next day we shot off in gorgeous conditions looking at 25 or 30kms. For the last few days our paths had crossed with an American dude who looks and sounds like travel guru Rick Steve.
he is travelling with a companion and we met them again after our breakfast stop. They set off before us and I thought they had raced ahead so at the edge of town I let rip with my valedictory salute to the town. Unfortunately the 2 Americans were hiding to the side filling up their water bottles ! Kathleen was acutely embarrassed and set off full steam ahead whilst the yanks were left to deal with the fallout ! We didn´´t see them again til after lunch when they gave us a wide berth and still looked shell shocked !

Just up the track from the mini-Chernobyl we paused for a water refil and encountered and Irish guy who looked under the weather - stressed out, sunburnt and dehydrated. He declined our offer of a boiled lolly so we resumed walking. At our next stop he powered past us aided by two twig like bendy poles and proceeded to disappear into the distance. At the 25km mark we looked at staying at Sanbol which was in the middle of nowhere but declined when advised that there were no toilets ! So we pressed on to Hontanas in 30 degree heat eventually arriving exhausted. Advertising hoardings on the way to the town showed a nice private albergue so we flopped into there. It was great ! While waiting for the washing machine to do its job I had a well deserved beer at the bar and who should join me but the re-juvenated Irishman - except he wasn´´t Irish - his parents are but he lives in Wales ! Tim was a bar manager from Cardiff and in his element on either side of the bar ! He kept Gabe and me entertained all afternoon with stories of football fans, rugby fans and life in Cardiff. The only porky he told all afternoon was his claim that he didn´t snore - he was like a freight train ! Tim had done the camino 5 years ago with 12 mates but wanted to do it now on his own. He disappeared before sunup and we haven´´t seen him since - tho 2 girls report that they heard a Welsh voice calling out from under some shady bushes - like some modern day Siren !

Next day dawned fine and hot and we did another 30km trek to Boadilla. We stayed at another private hostal which appeared like an oasis - green grass surrounding a pool ! Our host was an Argentinian who was in awe of the All Blacks ! Had a great stay there and today trudged off in misty rain to Carrion de Condes where we are staying at an old convent hosted by nuns !

3 comments:

  1. omg two 30km days in the heat....you will be across the Meseta almost before you have started it. That rest day in Burgos has sure given you some energy!!

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  2. You seem utterly devoid of any appreciation of the spiritual and cultural significance of the Camino...your blog is opinionated, light on hard or useful information, and catalogues a group of people who seem to be rushing their way through the experience, whinging and sneering, and carping about being 'ripped' all the time...Did you ever consider that you may well be the sort of ignoramuses who invite that sort of treatment? You are not a good advert for fellow Kiwis and your blog is becoming well known as a by-word for philistinism.

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  3. Rick the PhilistineJune 16, 2009 at 3:02 AM

    Dear Anonymous - fair comment - that´s exactly what my wife has said- perhaps we should sign our posts so that you can differentiate between mine and hers ! For your info I will give a full account of all practical and useful info at the end of the camino. My comments/opinions are just that - my own - and I have always presumed that that is what blogs are for. My light hearted comments are just that - an attempt to inject some humour into our camino experience - at our own expense. At this stage I will leave the cultural and spiritual aspects of the pilgrimage to my wife to comment on. If you want practical or spiritual info on the camino there are many other legitimate sites you should be consulting before our blog !

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